Lunching on the Upper East Side
Mario thought it would be nice to leave downtown behind and trek to the Upper East Side to visit Cafe Sabarsky, in the Neue Gallery Museum for German and Austrian Art. An espresso is $5, he explained, but it’s worth it for the atmosphere.
After a minor express train mishap that had us switching platforms at 125th Street, we got off the 4 train at 86th and walked west to Fifth Avenue. On the corner sits the squat, imposing museum, and just opening the huge iron door is enough to work up an appetite.
Neither of us had the patience for Austrian art at that moment — we were starving and culture was the last thing on our minds. The café itself is in a small room at the corner of the building, inside the lobby. I say small, but that’s only compared to the building, which is huge considering it was once some insanely rich family’s home. The room is clad floor to ceiling in ornate wood paneling, and packed with small marble-topped tables. Most had two old ladies each, sitting properly, sipping their coffees, nibbling their cakes. One woman, in an outfit that would look ridiculous anywhere outside of the UES, sat reading Die Welt alone at her table. They were the Ladies Who Lunch, and we were there to emulate them.
The service was as one should expect: gracious but to the point, and it’s appreciated. Who wants a goofy, sloppy waitress telling you about her day as if you care, anyhow? We first ordered lunch, which was very good for that area of Europe — not my favorite cuisine, but certainly edible. Come on, get that out of the way, bring the dessert! We were recommended some of the waitress’ favorites, none of which we ultimately chose…if the server tells you what’s good, listen to him. The chocolate-apricot cake I got could have been moister, and was maybe just a bit too subtle for my mood just then. Mario’s rhubarb-something-or-other cake was also just okay.
We ordered espressos, and they were good. I considered getting the kaffe créme, which is espresso with a bit of hot cream drizzled in, but I decided to stay simple, even above Mario’s recommendations. I guess I was in an independent mood that day.
And just in case you were wondering, yes, the staff speaks German.
Café Sabarsky, 1048 Fifth Avenue, Manhattan
Mon and Wed 9am-6pm | Thu-Sun 9am-9pm
Two photos above from the Cafe Sabarsky website.